Farmhouse ales : culture and craftsmanship in the Belgian by Phil Markowski

By Phil Markowski

Farmhouse Ales defines the result of years of evolution, refinement, of easy rustic ales in sleek and ancient phrases, whereas guiding state-of-the-art brewers towards credible—and enjoyable—reproductions of those outdated global classics

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As noted by Johnson, Evans reported that extraordinarily long wort boils were commonplace—as long as nine to twelve hours. Evans remarked that the color of these brews was not nearly as dark as he would have expected and that the brewers sought “the maximum palate fullness and sweetness” to compensate for the low original gravities. Hops from the north of France and from Poperinge in Belgium were commonly used for bitterness while the finer varieties from Alsace, if used at all, were reserved for the last half-hour of the boil.

These were intended for longer-term storage as provisions for the warm weather months. The higher alcohol content of these “provision beers” would have helped provide stability during months of storage or “garding” (in modern times of refrigeration, garding is more likely to refer to secondary storage in bulk tanks prior to packaging). As refrigeration technology became commonplace in small breweries, the practice of seasonal brewing was made obsolete. The brewing of stronger ales, or bière de garde, became unnecessary and these ales largely faded from view; any that remained would have been brewed more out of nostalgia than necessity.

Other small specialty brewers followed suit, producing more inspired versions than did the large breweries. Breweries both large and small have opted to use the name bière de printemps (spring beer) in an effort to maintain some individuality while still capitalizing on the seasonal appeal of the product. As for the physical stylistic parameters of modern bière de Mars (or bière de printemps), there appear to be no obvious (as is typical of French specialty brewers) common traits to the versions.

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