By Peter Kaminsky
With Charred & Scruffed, bestselling cookbook writer and acclaimed chef Adam Perry Lang employs his large culinary heritage to refine and focus the flavors and textures of barbeque and reimagine its possibilities.
Adams new innovations, from roughing up meat and greens (»scruffing») to cooking without delay on scorching coals (»clinching») to continuously turning and relocating the beef whereas cooking (»hot potato»), produce crust formation and layers of style, whereas his board dressings and completing salts construct upon scrumptious meat juices, and his «fork finishers»—like cranberry, hatch chile, and mango «spackles»—provide an intensely flavorful, targeted finish note.
Meanwhile, facet dishes corresponding to Creamed Spinach with Steeped and Smoked Garlic Confit, Scruffed Carbonara Potatoes, and Charred Radicchio with Sweet-and-Sticky Balsamic and Bacon, faraway from afterthoughts, offer intriguing distinction and synergy with the «mains.
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Extra info for Charred & Scruffed
Often mistakenly described as caramelizing—which is what happens when heat causes the natural sugars of carbohydrates to break down, resulting in vegetables that are golden brown and delicious—the Maillard reaction (named for a French chemist who led an adventuresome life in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries) describes what happens when a protein transforms under heat. It kicks off a chain reaction that is mind-numbingly complex, but all you need to remember is that it produces thousands of flavor compounds and these are what give browned meat its very distinct and appealing flavor.
In those simpler times, you dug a hole, or stacked some bricks to make a fireplace, filled it with logs, and lit the fire. When the fire was at the perfect temperature, you put a grate over the pit and started to cook. If you wanted less heat, you let the fire burn down, raked the fire, or raised the grate. The lower temperatures achieved by cooking at a distance allows the crust to develop slowly and the heat to penetrate the interior of the meat more gradually and uniformly. These are good things.
Double-Butterflied Leg of Lamb Serves 6 to 8 In the last fifteen or twenty years, barbecued boneless leg of lamb has become a grilling favorite. The usual scenario is something like this: The thin part of the butterflied leg is done in thirty minutes or so. But then there is the thick part. It never seems to get done. You probe it for temperature. Not believing that any piece of meat could take that long, you start to cut into it . . repeatedly, so that the juices flow out. By the time it is cooked through, it is as dry as a parched cornfield after a year-long drought, and the thin part is completely overdone.